Although the timetable said travel time was 15 hours, we didn't arrive in Chiang Mai until 3:30 pm the following day, making it a 17.5 hr trip! Of course, I wouldn't recommend this as the primary mode of transportation throughout the country, but it's an experience and definitely worth doing once (if time allots). The fare is inexpensive (less than 600 baht) and the ride is very scenic through the northern national parks.
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| Northern Thailand |
The train dropped us off in Chiang Mai and we quickly boarded a songthaew (red pickup truck taxi) for the Arcade station to get a mini van to Pai (150 baht). I definitely recommend this option over the bus because it's faster 2-3 hrs from Chiang Mai) and air-conditioned. All in all to get from Bangkok to Pai took 20.5 hrs.
Pai
Pai (pronounced "bye") is a village in the northern Thai mountains close to the Myanmar border. The town lies in a valley by the river between lush forested mountain ranges. This is a beautiful destination if you're looking for something a little off the beaten path, away from the city chaos. The relaxed tourists in addition to hippie and rasta locals create a laid-back atmosphere. Here we stayed in Darling Viewpoint Bungalows, an adorable teak Thai style guesthouse on a hill overlooking the river and valley. It is owned by Darling (aka Anne) a cheerful Thai woman who rebuilt the viewpoint bungalows further uphill after the tsunami in late 2004 left her original guesthouse by the river in ruins, and her barely alive. The guesthouse is about 15 mins uphill walk from the village and at night it's quite dark. But the walk is safe or you can hire a motorbike. Despite the walk, it's a charming place away from the noise and bustle of the visiting backpackers and Darling is very friendly and always accommodating. But if you'd prefer to be central, it may be best to stay somewhere in the village by the river. There are many options.
We walked around the village shops and food stalls our first night and finally settled at The Buffalo Exchange bar (same as the clothing store, but with a bar!) for some dinner and beer while listening to the live band perform renditions of Beatles and Bob Marley favorites.
The following day we walked to town and hired a car and guide for a tour around the area. Mr. One, our driver and guide, is a funny Thai man who was very helpful. We did pay a higher price for the day and also paid for his fuel (apparently not included in his originally quoted price) but with limited time this was a good way to see the area and we enjoyed riding around in his makeshift convertible.
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| Natalie, I and Mr. One |
Sights:
Wat Nam Hoo: known for its sacred Buddha that is believed to have once dripped holy water. Be careful of bees in the area.
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| Wat Nam Hoo |
Chinese village: cute amusement-park type village with a good store for buying local Pai mountains tea.
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| Chinese Village |
Mo Paeng Waterfall: not deep or strong with smooth rocks. Seemed like a popular place for a swim, so bring a swimsuit!
Coffee In Love: cute coffee house with stunning views and great coffee! Relax with a ice blended coffee while taking in the scenery and listening to mellow covers of popular 80/90s tunes from artists such as Culture Club and Alanis Morissette (get used to muzak versions of popular pop songs; they're everywhere in Thailand)
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| Coffee In Love |
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| view from coffee shop |
Pai canyon: Pai's very little "grand canyon" is a beautiful forested valley with red ridges. The path is narrow and steep with 160 ft drops off both sides, so be careful. It's a beautiful spot to take in the landscape.
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| Pai Canyon |
Tha Pai hot springs: located in the village Tha Pai, about 2 miles south of Pai town. There is an entrance fee of 200 baht for the hot springs (this price goes up as of next year)
World War II Pai bridge: a bridge with a little controversy regarding its origin. However, the Pai locals claim it was originally built by the Japanese during WWII for access past the Pai River into Burma. They used elephants to construct the original wooden bridge. The current steel bridge that stands is commemorative of Pai's history.
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| Pai River |
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| WWII Pai Bridge |
Last stop was Temple on the Hill (Wat Phra That Mae Yen): another nice wat with views of the valley
After a full sightseeing day, we made a quick stop at a local elephant camp on the way back to our bungalow.
Tips:
Try some of the local Northern Thai cuisine, especially the Kao Soi (noodle soup with veggies and meat) and sweet and sour sauce (tastes like honey and so delicious). Each region of Thailand offers their unique twist on traditional Thai dishes.Some good restaurants:
The House. Offers a variety of western favorites, like French fries and burgers, in addition to traditional Thai cuisine.
I ordered kao soi with pork, Chang beer, and mango with sticky rice for 150 baht (less than $5). All delicious.
Breakfast is good at the Witching Well. They have a wide selection of breakfast favs like omelets, pancakes and breky potatoes. I had a fully mango, incredibly scrumptious breakfast--mango smoothie, mango pancake w/ side hash browns--all for 165 baht.
Remember to take motion-sickness pills for the drive in and out of Pai. It's a bit windy and steep
Hire a motorbike for 200baht/day. You can sightsee all around the area.
Also, if you're looking to buy any jewelry in Pai, dismiss all the cheaper street vendors and head down this alleyway off the main road to PM Spirit Shop. There you'll find a little outdoor garden patio and handmade jewelry shop where an adorable hippie couple sells their jewelry. Their items are well-made and their stones genuine. There are many unique pieces to choose from. In addition to beautiful jewelry, the couple has opened up their home to guests looking for a place to sit and relax with free wifi and toilets.
If you can, stay in Pai for a few days to slow down and recharge your batteries. Il dolce far niente!
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| Kao Soi |
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| View from Darling Viewpoint Bungalows |
